install an Over-the-Stove Microwave

install an Over-the-Stove Microwave

Installing an over-the-stove microwave will serve two purposes. The specially designed over-the-stove microwave will also serve as the range vent. An over-the-stove cupboard is a must to install the microwave. There needs to be at least 45" between the cupboard and the stove. There should also be a 30"w x 12"d space for the over-the-stove microwave to fit into. This is a heavy task. Asking a friend to help during the installation is recommended.

Prepare to install the over-the-stove microwave by pulling the stove out of position to allow more room to work. Remove any molding from the bottom of the cupboard where the microwave will be installed.

Remove the microwave from the carton by opening the box. Removing instructions, and installation parts.

Fold the lid flaps out and thought about turn the box upside down, letting the microwave rest on the packaging. Slide the box off of the microwave and Remove the packing material.

Unscrew the 2 screws on top of the mounting plate that is attached to the bottom of the microwave. Remove the mounting plate. Save the plate and screws for use later in the installation.

Locate the wall studs in the wall the microwave will be installed on. Mark the studs with a pencil. The mounting plate needs to be installed into at least one stud.

Measure the depth inside the front overhang on the cupboard. Draw an horizontal line on the wall even with the overhang.

Locate the center of 30" and draw a vertical line from the cupboard to where the microwave will expand and an horizontal line along the bottom. Using the in case,granted template, drill 5/8 holes, following the template, along the bottom. Drill a 3/16 hole if drilling into a stud.

Attach the mounting plate with bolts and nuts provided, to the wall using the holes drilled in the former step. Use the in case,granted toggle bolts if not screwing into a stud. Tighten all bolts and nuts.

Tape the in case,granted cupboard template to the bottom of the cupboard. Drill a hole large adequate for the electrical cord to fit through.

Lift and tilt the microwave forward. Slide the four lower tabs of the mounting plate into the holes in the microwave. Tip the front and press against the bottom of the cupboard.

Attach the supplied, self-aligning screws, straight through the holes drilled into the cupboard. Turn the screws with the screwdriver 2 perfect turns. Insert and wholly tighten the center screw. Return to the outer screws and quit tightening them.

Insert the in case,granted grease filter into the slot on the bottom of the over-the-stove microwave.

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Hotpoint Washing engine Repairs, Error Code E10 and F10

Hotpoint Washing engine Repairs, Error Code E10 and F10

If your hotpoint washing engine is not working and you feel it needs repairs and you are getting the E10 or F10 error code, this means there is No cold fill and you should check and verify that the taps are on and that the hoses are not kinked.

The first thing to check is the taps, most machines will have the hot and cold fill provide plumbed via a hot and cold inlet valve placed under a sink or directly behind the machine, it is commonly a silver valve with the Blue and some times a red flexible hose connected to it, the blue should be cold and if there is a red that will be the hot supply.

In the on position, the plastic switch placed on the side of the in let vale should be pointed in the same direction as the arrow on the valve and in the off position it should be pointed over the valve, if it looks off, especially if your valve is under a sink where pots, pans, boxes and other item can get pushed up against it and could turn it off by accident, simply turn it back on, but do not force it, as forcing it could break it, and that could lead to a flood situation.

If the valves looks Ok, but the washing engine is still not working and you still get the E10 or F10 error message, you now need to check for a kinks in the pipes, this will probably mean pulling the washing engine out from its housing to continue the repair.

At this stage you need to take in to notice the fact that the washing engine will be heavy and connected to both the mains electrics and mains water provide and also that putting the engine back properly can often be harder than taking it out.

If you are unsure, you would be best advised to call a engineer, if you are not willing to pull the washing engine out you could still also check any part of the inlet flexible hose pipes that you can literally see, like in the cupboards and also to the side of the washer, if you see any kinks, you could try to remove the kink and test the engine again.

Error codes are commonly engine definite and the prognosis given here is for the hotpoint range only, do not spin this prognosis or error code meanings to any other make of washing machine

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Repairing Your Washing machine Yourself

Repairing Your Washing machine Yourself

If you have a problem in fixing your washing machine, you don't have to call a repair person, why don't you try to fix it yourself? Most problems that happen in your washers are absolutely quite coarse and can be absolutely fixed. There's absolutely to need to spend unnecessary money to call a repair man to come and fix it.

Precautions

Before beginning to fix a washing machine, make sure the washer is unplugged first. Some population thinks that a small problem could be fixed without unplugging the machine, but even the smallest problem, you must unplug it. This is in general for protection reasons. Besides, why wouldn't you unplug it if it takes only a second?

Tips for purchasing parts in repairing a broken washer

Before disposing your old broken washer, keep in mind that your next washing motor would be broken and in time to come, you may need some spare parts to fix it as way. Hence, you may want to check your old broken washing motor before disposal and dismantle the parts you need. Buying from a retailer of washing motor repair is not a good idea, because they would also be buying the used parts of recycled washing machines. A good option is to check with a wholesale appliance parts sellers where you can get brand new and even cheaper washing motor spare parts.

Spinning or Agitating Troubles

If the washing machines agitator won't work, rest easy. Compared to other parts of the washing machine, agitators are comparatively easier to fix. The drive belt makes the agitator work, and if when this belt becomes loose, it could cause the agitators in washing motor to malfunction. To see the drive belt of the agitator, take off the back panel of the washer. Find the drive belt and press it. If the motor moves about ¾ inch, all you have to do is to tighten it. If you see the belt drive is absolutely damaged, it's time to buy a new one.

In tightening a drive belt, all you have to do is loosen up a dinky bit the mounting nut on the motor and ease its motor with the mountain rail. Wait until the belt is perfectly tight and before mounting the nut. Final step is to return the passage panel and your washer will be fixed.

Leaking washing machine

If you have a leaky washer, and it's very probable that the leak is coming from the hose. To solve such washing motor problems, monitor the hoses while the washer is filling. If you find where the leak comes from, all you got to do is tighten the hose.

Snags or Rips in Material

If you see snags or rips inside the washing machine, it could be coming from the tub or agitator. Some washers tub is made up of plastic and it's materials is fairly rust resistance. Unfortunately, the holes in these tubs could rust. If you want to check whether there are any rough spots inside your tub, simply place an old nylon to stuck over your hand and go over the tub. If there is a spot that snags your clothes while washing, then you will find the stocking. You could absolutely fix this up with sandpaper and sand it down.

Replacing the Agitator

If your agitator is broken, you have to find a replacement as soon as possible. Delaying it could destroy your clothes. In replacing an agitator, simply take off the dispenser that covers the agitator and take off the screw under it. After this, just lift the agitator out. If it is hard to be pulled out, fill the washer with hot water to take off any soaps or anyone that holds it down. If that won't work, hit softly the agitator with a rubber mallet on order to loosen it. When the agitator is removed, you can replace it with a new one.

Washing motor Won't Fill

Each time you observation your washer won't fill with water, the filter screen could be clogged from the hot or cold tube hose. To fix this, just switch off the cold and hot water faucets and take off the hose by unscrewing it. Check if the filter screen is dirty and clean it. You should also check if the hoses are cutting the water provide flowing to the washer.

Clothes are Too Wet After Spin Cycle

If you observation that after you spin cycle, the clothes are still wet, it's advisable to study your drainage hose for faults. It could be kinked or clogged. Check the hose and clean it up using long-handled brush. You could buy one of these long-handled brushes in aquatic or pet stores. You could also use the brushes that are used for cleaning the aquarium tubes. If the problem is hose kink, just take off it. If it is stocked pretty tight, you would probably have to replace a new one. Now you could use your washing motor perfectly!

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The trouble With Black Mold In Air Conditioners - And What To Do About It

The trouble With Black Mold In Air Conditioners - And What To Do About It

Both Ac units and air ducts make great places for mold to hang out.

With Ac units, water leaks out of them and makes a nice place for mold. In these water pools mold grows, and then their spores are passed along straight through the ducts to every part of the house.

Your heating and cooling law also can suck air out of separate parts of the house. This means that mold can be passed all over the place, every which way, by your ventilation system.

The Hvac unit that sits surface your home is exquisite for mold, because there's all the time water nearby it. Mold often grows in the unit's water pools. The evaporator coil is also a major problem spot.

How Can You Tell?

First, there are the regular mold symptoms which usually seem sinus trouble; runny nose, stuffy nose, and sinus headache. If you can smell mold when you turn on or run the Ac, you right on have a mold question there.

To make sure, you can all the time get a home testing kit from your hardware store. This might be a good idea anyway, and it can also tell you if the source of your mold troubles is your Ac unit.

Take the testing gear and check each room. Check nearby all the vents. Also, check nearby the unit itself outside, especially where there is any standing water.

What Can You Do?

If you have mold in your air ducts, it doesn't do much good to clean them. That's not just my opinion; that's what the Epa recommends. If you have mold in your ducts, it's symptomatic of a mold question elsewhere in the house, and until you address that, you won't make any progress on the mold.

For the Ac unit, you have to clean it on a regular basis to keep them mold free. Of course, you have to fully clean up any mold that you find nearby the unit, or in the minute pools of water nearby it.

In general, keep the fan mode switch on your Ac on "auto" mode. If you put it on "on," it will recirculate all that moisture that has collected on the evaporator coil straight through your house and air conditioning system. You don't want to raise the humidity level of your house; that will cause mold problems all over.

If you are construction a home or buying a new Ac unit, look for one that has options to operate the humidity. Some have variable speeds, or separate modes like "moisture removal." This will help greatly in controlling your house's mold.

Another tip on picking an Ac unit is that bigger machines usually growth humidity. For some reason, population generally choose oversized Ac units for their homes. This is certainly not a wise choice, because a bigger unit will generate more moisture and circulate that moisture straight through your home.

If your heating and cooling law is infested with mold, you will probably have to call a professional and have the whole house tested and remediated.

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